Question: Where can I find patterns to make Orthodox vestments?

Answer: Vestments are a completely different "animal" than standard sewing. Not only are the fabrics and trims different, but there is a whole host of techniques for dealing with these materials in a traditional fashion. It is a common misconception by those who don't sew that anyone who has the ability to sew can sew anything, but there is a wide variety of skills and techniques used in various types of sewing (upholstery, swimwear, couture, etc.).

As far as books or patterns, there aren't any available. This is because each vestment maker drafts his own "slopers" or master patterns that are then manipulated to each client's measurements. Personally, I direct draft onto the fabric using both my master patterns and my client's measurements, so I'm not able to provide "patterns" like those used in home sewing. Vestment making is a craft with many different facets and techniques that takes years to learn and it's not easy to distill it into a few, brief steps for one or two garments. The equivalent would be to ask for paint-by-number icons: the finished product might look vaguely icon-like, but it wouldn't be an Orthodox icon following the established tradition of the craft. I know this answer may seem discouraging, but it's the reality of an aesthetic tradition built up over many centuries of refinement and use.

Q: When ordering vestments, which colors should I have and in what order should I purchase them?

A: This question comes up with almost every order placed and the following is a general answer (please call or e-mail for specific questions). The basic colors a priest should have are gold for most Sundays (a set made of a gold/white brocade can be used as both a gold and a white set), purple for Lent, white for Pascha, blue for feasts of the Theotokos and Akathist services in Lent, red for feasts of the cross and martyrs, and green for Pentecost season. If you travel frequently, I would suggest vestments made from the embroidered fabric from Greece as many of the patterns have multiple-color combinations that are very versatile.

Q: I'm being ordained a deacon and will be ordained a priest soon (6 months to 1 year). What should I purchase?

You may already have an anterri (cassock) but you will need an exorasson.

I have four options I recommend to clients in this situation:

1. Beg or borrow vestments from someone else and then save for your priest's vestments.
2. Purchase one gold/white or gold/red deacon's set which can be worn every Sunday.
3. Puchase one gold/white or gold/red deacon's set and then cuffs and orarion (no sticharion) in a burgundy/gold brocade. When the rubrics specify "light" vestments, you wear the gold set, when they specify "dark" wear the gold sticharion with the burgundy/gold cuffs and orarion.
4. Rent deacon's vestments. I have several deacon's sets that I rent out short-term (3-6 months usually).

Q: I really like the photo of the gray anterri (cassock), but do clergy really wear them?

Yes! Most clergy are delighted to wear something other than black and the lighter color is nice and cool in summer. The most common colors of anterris are black, blue, and gray (in that order). I've also sewn a taupe-colored anterri recently and I've seen burgundy and light-blue anterris.

Q: Why do I have to e-mail you for swatches? Why can't you just send a generic packet of swatches?

I like to know your budget, your needs, and your color and pattern preferences. Corresponding with you via e-mail allows me to narrow down my choices of what to send you. However, I have hundreds of fabrics available and if you don't like what is in the first swatch packet, let me know and I'll keep sending swatches until you find that "just-right" fabric/galloon combination.

Q: Should I purchase a poly/wool anterri, tropical-weight wool, or silk anterri?

This question is best answered by asking yourself what kind of suit you would buy--would it be important to you to purchase an all-wool suit or is a wool blend fine with you? If you answer all-wool, choose tropical-weight wool, if you answer wool-blend then choose the poly-wool. Both the poly-wool and all-wool drapes beautifully and wrinkles very little (any wrinkles usually disappear after the garment is hung for several hours). Tropical-weight wool is slightly cooler than poly/wool because wool is a natural fiber and breathes well. Poly/wool is also a nice fabric and is a good choice if you are planning to wear the garment everyday (seminarians fall into this category), plan to use the anterri as a "workin" anterri (i.e. cleaning the sacristy, baptisms, etc.), or would be just as satisfied with a wool blend suit as an all-wool suit. For a truly special garment, the silk is an excellent choice--it is true silk crepe, not a synthetic. It travels well. The poly- cotton is excellent for everyday wear and is machine washable.

Q: I am going to be ordained a priest soon and while I really want to purchase quality vestments, I am on a limited budget. What do you suggest?

I have available embroidered vestments on a less-expensive background fabric. You have a choice of white, ecru, burgundy, light blue, purple, or black for the background. Embroidery designs can be done in gold and/or silver as well as a few other colors. This set (priest's vestments) is $775.00.

Q: I perspire heavily and am too warm and uncomfortable in my vestments--what should I do?

The lightest-weight vestments you can purchase are the lightweight, embroidered vestments--the entire set weighs just over 3 lbs. The phelonion is unlined and will keep you as cool as is possible in vestments. Also, this is a tough fabric and perspiration won't damage it as quickly as liturgical brocades. The embroidered fabric is available in many beautiful patterns and almost every liturgical color. The next solution would be to purchase rayon brocade (ask me for recommendations of particular fabrics) with a lightweight lining (some linings are heavier than others and a heavy lining will definitely contribute to your discomfort). You should avoid real-metal brocades with metallic galloon because they are the "hottest" of all vestments.